21/07/09 Epinal to Fouchy
The heat returns - one temperature sign showed 37c at 1 pm. I suspect that was exaggerated, but we are back to consuming 2-3 litres of water per day. We stayed close to the forest for today's ride to benefit from the shade. We ended up on some interesting roads, including unsealed and very steep. It was a good workout after the last few days of valley and rolling roads.
After crossing the hills of the Vosges, we stopped at the first Logis hotel we came across - it was almost time for the Tour stage to finish. The hotel wasn't offering it's usual menu that evening - instead it was a 12euro guinguette with ham and salads a go-go, drinks and desserts extra. The food was excellent - like a pot luck picnic but prepared by professionals. . It's a regular Tuesday night thing for them, and it attracted more than 140 people from the surrounding villages. It was a great event - the music got people dancing, with lots of happy kids running around. Near as we could tell, we were the only non-French attendees - It's the sort of evening you'd seek out if you knew how to find it. We stretched the budget and had 2 half-litre jugs of Cote d'Rhone at 2.20 euros each, and we had 3 desserts between us.
22/07/09 Fouchy to Barr
The purpose of today's ride was to get us close enough to Strasbourg so that on Thursday we could get there in the morning to disassemble the tandem. We had were thinking about Rosheim on the river Bruche, but we liked the look of Barr when we passed through, so we stopped early and found a Chambre d'Hote through the tourist office. Since the hostess was out shopping and wouldn't be home for a few hours, we left the luggage with the women at the tourist office and did a circuit without baggage to Mt St Odile, a former abbey on the top of a 600m hill. The view was magnificent and the buildings impressive. The most impressive thing though, was that the hotel and restaurant run by the abbey are dirt cheap - a double room with WC down the hall was 32euros! The major part of the hotel was being rebuilt, so it might have been a construction-time special. Whether it would have been worth hauling the luggage up that hill to stay there is another question.
We dined on the terrace outside a winestub and had escargot and sandre (fish) in riesling sauce, kugelhof glace for dessert and a bottle of bubbly - Cremant d'Alsace.
23/07/09 - Barr to Strasbourg
We're used to the French weather being relatively stable - you don't very often get the four-seasons-in-one-day effect we love in New Zealand. Today was an exception with overnight thunder and rain at Barr, a bright sunny morning, then a torrential downpour in Strasbourg just as we had ducked into a cafe for lunch. The bike disassembly went smoothly but drew the usual crowd of gawkers. The poor bike was filthy dirty after the rain and occasional dirt roads - thank goodness for Singapore airlines socks - perfect bike cleaning mitts.
Dinner was at another winstub, just around the corner of Crocodil - our favourite Michelin star restaurant (though they've lost their 3rd star in recent years.) It was closed for remodeling - not that we could have afforded to eat there now! The winstub was very busy while most others were quiet, so we must have chosen the right one. Norm had pork knuckle with choucroute and sauteed potatoes and mille feuille of red fruits, while Vee had rabbit en cocotte with a yummy game sauce and tart myrtille. Talk about Bluetooth (or blue teeth!)
24/07/09 - Strasbourg to Vilshofen
A short night as we had to catch the TGV to Charles de Gaulle airport at 06:11. If only all travel could be as simple as this! We arrived 30 minutes before departure, rolled up to the train at 05:55 and stacked our suitcase and panniers in the luggage racks and relaxed into our reclining seats. Espresso from the bar car and a smooth ride at TGV speeds.
Then, of course, we arrived at the airport! It wasn't easy to find the right check-in desk and when we did, two agents were handling all the check-ins for an Airbus 318, including 8 seriously disabled passengers in wheelchairs. Add to that a two-hour delay while the plane was replaced due to a fault and busing us around the airport to another gate and a missed train to Vilshofen because of traffic delays on the transfer bus and we arrived in Vilshofen to find our room had been given to someone else. We wangled another room and we are now comfortably showered and looking forward to dinner at a nearby biergarten.
SANTANA Vacations Danube Cruise
This will be a holiday from our holiday. Instead of having to repack our stuff everyday and carry it all on the bike, we will be safely ensconced for a full week in the cabin of the Amadeus Royal, a river cruising hotel by Luftner Cruises which will follow us down the Danube. Each day will offer a choice of easy rides down by the river, or harder rides through nearby hills. We'll opt for the hilly rides whenever we can so we can spend time with our friend Wolfgang, who plans the hard rides.
All meals are provided on the boat - breakfast and lunch are buffet, while dinner is sit-down-and-order, but in informal style. They offer lots of choices at each meal and wine and beer are included. The days start early and formalities finish early, though the bar will remain open until the last passengers stumble off to bed.
As usual, the Santana group will be an assortment of a few serious riders, a few long-time touring riders, and the balance will be social riders who do a few kms each day, but hit all the shops and cafes along the way while showing off fancy bikes and equipment. Our is not THE cheapest and oldest tandem, but we're not far from it. Still, I reckon ours has done as many kms as any on the trip.
25/07/09 Vilshofen to Passau
No cycling today, just bike assembly in the morning, a spot of shopping, and then down to the dock to await the arrival of the river cruise boat Amadeus Royal and the Santana cycle tour. The tour started in Prague with bus transport to Vilshofen with a stop for lunch at the Pilsner Urquell Brewery. The boat was early - arriving before midday - and the buses were late - arriving 2 hours after the scheduled time of 2.15 pm. Then it was bike assembly on a grand scale with 68 tandems needing to be assembled on the top deck of the boat. Bill & Jan McCready, owners of Santana, had a team of experienced tandem hands to help the owners with
assembly, so Norm did just a bit of dirty work while Vee chatted with various fellow travellers. Drinks and Bavarian snacks were served in the Panorama Bar at the pointy end, then dinner at the square end. Food and wine were good but not exceptional, but we met more of our companions and a jolly time was had. The boat cabins are well equipped, functional and comfortable - a good place to unpack our gear, hang things on hangers, and not have to repack for a week.
It was particularly good to see Wolfgang again after several years - he is working as hard as ever but still looks dangerously fit. Tomorrow will tell the tale - he will lead the long riders up a few hills away from the river.
26/07/09 Passau to Linz
Early start - as will become normal - Generous breakfast buffet. The majority of riders choose the shorter option which is all along the river, while we opt for the Wolf Pack - stronger riders who follow Wolfgang over the hills. Another big buffet for lunch, though we had to bolt it as we arrived a bit late. The afternoon was not so hilly and we met up with some non-Tour friends of Wolfgang who live in Linz and gave us a quick tour of the hillier parts of town, followed by ice cream in the platz in in front of the "new" church - 1830.
Just time to shower and change before dinner which is ordered at the table. Good but not star-quality food and lots of it. The bar is quite expensive, so we just hang out unless Robert is buying!
27/07/09 Linz to Vienna
Another frantic breakfast and it's off with the Wolf Pack again. Slightly steeper and much faster ride today with 10 instead 8 tandem teams of yesterday. Another bolted lunch when Bill calls for Wolf Pack to be ready in 10 minutes. We are last to leave, so we get slightly lost and refound before trying to catch Wolfgang - a hopeless cause. We pause at the bottom of the hill below Aggstein Castle which Wolfgang and Pack were visiting in the shade of a cafe. As soon as the drinks arrive, so does Wolfgang. 8 km race to the Spitz ferry before most of the tandems opt for the short ride while we enjoy a great climb and downhill into Krems for wine apertif in a 1000 year old cellar. We buy a bottle of Grunver Veltner for enjoyment in our cabin.
Norm did the wages before dinner, thinking we'd get to McDo to use the wifi - however, the boat departed before dinner. We paid almost 10 euros to use the ship's very slow internet to do the business, then look at Wolfgang's photos of his house in the Italian lakes.
28/07/09 layover in Vienna
Grace matinee while the majority of riders bus to the Schonbrunn Palace for the Marionetten Theatre. It's not as corny as it sounds, but Norm has been to three performances with AYH groups, so we opt to cycle into the city and book some opera tickets. The Stadt Oper is, of course, quiet in the summer, but we found a performance of Zeller's "The Bird Seller" at the Palace Theatre which is a delightful romantic comedy and the singing and music were wonderful. We took tram and Underground to and from the opera, arriving back for the end of the Kareoke and pyjama party which suffered by comparison.
29/07/09 Vienna to Komerom
The day started with a 15 km ride on an island in the Danube without cars - a veritable bicycle motorway, followed by a detour to the ancient village of Bad Deutsch Altenburg. A 2000 year old arched gate set against a backdrop of 21st century windmills - no offended sensibilities here!
The lunch boat was at nearby Hainburg - a welcome respite from the 33c heat! After lunch we visited the rest of the historic monuments in town before departing on the easy bike path along the river to Brataslava, a Communist showplace of dreary housing towers and abandoned buildings. We had a beer and ice cream in the leafy cobblestoned lanes while waiting for the boat to catch up. We would have had time for a stroll after dinner, but the air conditioned cabin was too tempting. The boat sailed for Komerom at 11.00 pm.
30/07/09 Komerom to Visegrad
The Wolf Pack was swollen to 15 tandems, but it was only a short jaunt to morning coffee at Tata, at the foot of a lake over which loomed the Esterhazy Palace. We pushed ahead of the group with three other tandems and climb three good hills before lunch at Estergom. The villages remind us of France 30 years ago, with very modest houses and small shops and cafes. Lunch stop is shortened by the boat we are rafted to, so we hurry off the boat to join the Wolfpack at the magnificent Basilica. After enjoying the coolth of the church for longer than strictly necessary, it's an easy ride along the river to Visegrad. Before dinner we are marched to "Solomon's Tower" for a medieval tournament and everyone has a go with the weapons. Norm was relegated to the chair of nails, as if being Bill's friend for 45 years wasn't torture enough! A good time had by all, followed by the usual dinner at the more civilised hour of 8.00 pm.
31/07/09 Visegrad to Budapest
No long ride option today. The first segment is 8 km to a ferry crossing where only one boat was operating instead of the promised two, so it took nearly an hour to get everyone across. We were in the second to last boat and enjoyed the company of some of the slower riders for the first time. The morning beer stop was at Szentendre for a poke around the tourist shops before the ride into Budapest with a local guide to help us with the twists and turns. We were the red lantern for our group and kept having to stop for a team from Canada who had trouble with the bumpy surface and tight manoevering, another team that dropped their timing chain three times before allowing Norm to readjust it, and the couple test-riding Bill's top-of-the-line tandem who suffered a puncture. A bit annoying for the guide, but it allowed us plenty of time to enjoy the view.
A nice long nap in the afternoon was followed by a folklore music & dance performance in Budapest - very athletic performance and a short walk for Vee & Norm around the parliament buildings and basilica before dinner.
Sorry we haven't posted any photos for a while - that will have to wait until we next have a free or cheap wifi connection.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Monday, July 20, 2009
blog catch up 17-20/07
17/07/09 - Nantua to Doucier
After three weeks of great weather we were due for some rain and today we got it! We left in cool cloudy weather, but the rain started about lunch time. We quickly disappeared into a cafe for a coffee and, when the rain settled in, we stuck around for lunch. We didn't feel up to the full menu du jour, so we just ordered salads and dessert, but it still cost as much as the menu! It passed an hour or so, but it was still raining lightly when we left. Light turned to steady turned to heavy and we were thoroughly soaked by the time we got to our hotel in Doucier. The room was small, but the welcome and the shower warm, so we recovered while watching the Tour and had a yummy but simple table d'hote dinner of smoked trout entree, joue du porc, and tarte fine aux pommes with vanilla ice cream.
18/07/09 - Doucier to Sampans
More rain this morning, and we were in no hurry to leave. The weather was predicted to clear by afternoon, so we had a latish breakfast and hung around the hotel lobby until the rain eased off. When we recovered the tandem from the garage we found our first puncture of the trip. That was soon dealt with and we cycled straight through to Arbois - you don't feel much like stopping when it's cold and intermittantly sprinkling. A festival of the organ was going on in Arbois, and an excellent jazz group was performing under the arcades in the square with a small crowd listening and sampling Arbois wines. We lunched in a small pizzeria as the sun came out. The afternoon ride to Dole skirted the Foret de Chaux through lots of charming little villages. At Dole, we consulted the tourist office and booked into a charming Chambre d'Hote in nearby Sampans. The hostess recommended a restaurant in another village, reached by walking up a forestry road. The hotel was full of Tour de France personnel - the Tour stage ended that day in Besancon 40 kms away.
19/07/09 - Sampans to Villersexel
The fine weather returned today but we needed a new map, so it was back into Dole then along the Doubs river through more flowery villages with running fountains and springs everywhere. This is obviously on somebody's published cycle route as we saw plenty of cycletourists. One was hauling a Bob trailer cycling from Belgium to Italy in five days, averaging 200 kms/day. Yoiks. A new High-Speed train line connecting the Rhone and Rhine Valleys is being built through here, and while it's a major project it's much less disruptive than a motor way. It's quite interesting to see how it progresses from one end of the valley to the other.
We happened upon a very nice Logis de France hotel - lovely quiet room facing the river, excellent food (V entree - salad with giant prawns, N - salad with warm Morbier cheese, both mains Magret de Canard), and a charming hostess. This will be a good place to return to for circuits without luggage.
20/07/09 - Villersexel to Epinal
Just another day in cycling paradise - all green roads, from the Doubs valley to the Moselle, with little traffic and a short distance on an old railway bike path. One 600 m pass just to liven things up. Today (and yesterday) were over 110 kms, but perfect tandem country - rolling hills through green fields and forests. We picniced on a bench overlooking a chateau with the river in the foreground. Lots of little lakes and ponds in this area, of which Vee took quite a few photos - i'll try to post some tomorrow.
The last time we were in Epinal we ate at the star restaurant, more expensive than this year's budget allows, so we ate outside a small restaurant across from the cathedral. They weren't expecting to be so busy on a Monday, but waitress and customers were all relaxed and the food was great (V - fish soup and brochette of quail breasts and legs, N - escargots and "assiette du trois petite cochons" pork three ways.) A memorable night.
After three weeks of great weather we were due for some rain and today we got it! We left in cool cloudy weather, but the rain started about lunch time. We quickly disappeared into a cafe for a coffee and, when the rain settled in, we stuck around for lunch. We didn't feel up to the full menu du jour, so we just ordered salads and dessert, but it still cost as much as the menu! It passed an hour or so, but it was still raining lightly when we left. Light turned to steady turned to heavy and we were thoroughly soaked by the time we got to our hotel in Doucier. The room was small, but the welcome and the shower warm, so we recovered while watching the Tour and had a yummy but simple table d'hote dinner of smoked trout entree, joue du porc, and tarte fine aux pommes with vanilla ice cream.
18/07/09 - Doucier to Sampans
More rain this morning, and we were in no hurry to leave. The weather was predicted to clear by afternoon, so we had a latish breakfast and hung around the hotel lobby until the rain eased off. When we recovered the tandem from the garage we found our first puncture of the trip. That was soon dealt with and we cycled straight through to Arbois - you don't feel much like stopping when it's cold and intermittantly sprinkling. A festival of the organ was going on in Arbois, and an excellent jazz group was performing under the arcades in the square with a small crowd listening and sampling Arbois wines. We lunched in a small pizzeria as the sun came out. The afternoon ride to Dole skirted the Foret de Chaux through lots of charming little villages. At Dole, we consulted the tourist office and booked into a charming Chambre d'Hote in nearby Sampans. The hostess recommended a restaurant in another village, reached by walking up a forestry road. The hotel was full of Tour de France personnel - the Tour stage ended that day in Besancon 40 kms away.
19/07/09 - Sampans to Villersexel
The fine weather returned today but we needed a new map, so it was back into Dole then along the Doubs river through more flowery villages with running fountains and springs everywhere. This is obviously on somebody's published cycle route as we saw plenty of cycletourists. One was hauling a Bob trailer cycling from Belgium to Italy in five days, averaging 200 kms/day. Yoiks. A new High-Speed train line connecting the Rhone and Rhine Valleys is being built through here, and while it's a major project it's much less disruptive than a motor way. It's quite interesting to see how it progresses from one end of the valley to the other.
We happened upon a very nice Logis de France hotel - lovely quiet room facing the river, excellent food (V entree - salad with giant prawns, N - salad with warm Morbier cheese, both mains Magret de Canard), and a charming hostess. This will be a good place to return to for circuits without luggage.
20/07/09 - Villersexel to Epinal
Just another day in cycling paradise - all green roads, from the Doubs valley to the Moselle, with little traffic and a short distance on an old railway bike path. One 600 m pass just to liven things up. Today (and yesterday) were over 110 kms, but perfect tandem country - rolling hills through green fields and forests. We picniced on a bench overlooking a chateau with the river in the foreground. Lots of little lakes and ponds in this area, of which Vee took quite a few photos - i'll try to post some tomorrow.
The last time we were in Epinal we ate at the star restaurant, more expensive than this year's budget allows, so we ate outside a small restaurant across from the cathedral. They weren't expecting to be so busy on a Monday, but waitress and customers were all relaxed and the food was great (V - fish soup and brochette of quail breasts and legs, N - escargots and "assiette du trois petite cochons" pork three ways.) A memorable night.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
July 16 - Annecy to Nantua
The street music only went until about 11.00pm last night, but some of it was actually quite bad, at least to Norm's tin ear. Perhaps it could be chalked up to less than perfect acoustics, echoing around the buildings and canals. It's cool that you can wander from one venue to another, listening to the efforts of different groups, all without formality - no scheduled times, no tickets. In the case of the venue nearest the hotel, the musicians decided it was too hot in the square in front of the church, so they relocated to the arcades a couple of blocks away. The facade of the church bears testament to a miracle - a woman who had no children prayed to St Francis, who sent down a white dove and she bore a son. Halelujah and you, butcher's delivery boy, wipe that smirk off your face!
Our accommodation the last three days was very simple, but about half the price of the recommended hotels in town. 3rd floor, no lift, loo down the hall, small shower and washstand in the room, but comfortable bed and tiny balcony over the canal. Friendly staff, central location - it was worth saving the money to spend on the meals.
Today's ride took us over familiar territory, but new roads. We invested 2euros in a map of the Annecy agglomeration, which saved us the anxiety of trying to find our way out of town - a worthy investment. We avoided the nasty surprises waiting at the end of bike paths that go nowhere. The bulk of the ride was up a long, hot valley leading up to the Jura plateau, with frequent stops of immerse ourselves in fountains while searching for a shady picnic spot. Toward the end we joined a main road which has been bypassed by a spectacular motorway which towers over the valley on high viaducts. Fine engineering, as is the rebuilding of the railway through the same valley (between Bellegard sur Valiserene and Nantua) to improve the link between Paris/Lyon and Geneva.
Tonight we're at a rather luxe hotel in Nantua, right on the shore of the lake with all the mod cons including air conditioning. Vee has made a few phone calls this afternoon, so we're booked in for demi-pension tomorrow night at Doucier and booked in for Sunday lunch on 16 August at Pinasse Cafe in Cap Ferret after we pick up Jo & Rodney from the train in Bordeaux.
The meal tonight was excellent - Retour quality - chilled cream of white asparagus soup with smoked salmon mousse, fillet of omble (lake fish) with a sorrel sauce, apricot clafoutis with home-made caramel ice cream accompanied by a Petit Chablis.
After dinner, we had a stroll along the lake and had a look at the memorial to the deportation of Jews. It was particularly poignant with the music of a violin in the background, played by a young girl from one of the campervans parked along the lake. How many of the young deportees had played?
Our accommodation the last three days was very simple, but about half the price of the recommended hotels in town. 3rd floor, no lift, loo down the hall, small shower and washstand in the room, but comfortable bed and tiny balcony over the canal. Friendly staff, central location - it was worth saving the money to spend on the meals.
Today's ride took us over familiar territory, but new roads. We invested 2euros in a map of the Annecy agglomeration, which saved us the anxiety of trying to find our way out of town - a worthy investment. We avoided the nasty surprises waiting at the end of bike paths that go nowhere. The bulk of the ride was up a long, hot valley leading up to the Jura plateau, with frequent stops of immerse ourselves in fountains while searching for a shady picnic spot. Toward the end we joined a main road which has been bypassed by a spectacular motorway which towers over the valley on high viaducts. Fine engineering, as is the rebuilding of the railway through the same valley (between Bellegard sur Valiserene and Nantua) to improve the link between Paris/Lyon and Geneva.
Tonight we're at a rather luxe hotel in Nantua, right on the shore of the lake with all the mod cons including air conditioning. Vee has made a few phone calls this afternoon, so we're booked in for demi-pension tomorrow night at Doucier and booked in for Sunday lunch on 16 August at Pinasse Cafe in Cap Ferret after we pick up Jo & Rodney from the train in Bordeaux.
The meal tonight was excellent - Retour quality - chilled cream of white asparagus soup with smoked salmon mousse, fillet of omble (lake fish) with a sorrel sauce, apricot clafoutis with home-made caramel ice cream accompanied by a Petit Chablis.
After dinner, we had a stroll along the lake and had a look at the memorial to the deportation of Jews. It was particularly poignant with the music of a violin in the background, played by a young girl from one of the campervans parked along the lake. How many of the young deportees had played?
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
15/7 at Annecy
Not so much a blog today as a blob - two blobs actually.
We did the Tour de France time trial route around the lake, just to see what the boys will be up against. It's only about 45 kms. There are a few ups and downs, particularly when they climb Col de Bluffy. It's an easy climb as long your not trying to average 50 km/h, but the downhill from there into Talloires is pretty technical for a TT bike - expect to see aluminium, not carbon, rims on this TT. The rest is pretty flat and the crowds will be huge - there are lots of vantage points and this is mecca for holidaying French, Germans, and Dutch anyway.
We didn't even bother to stop at Marc Veyrat's restaurant to look at the menu. The Michelin guide (3 macarons) shows menus & a la carte about 270 euros! Marc Veyrat looks like the Michael Jackson of the culinary set, with black hat, black robe and sunglasses, but he's the celebrity chef of the moment over here, famous for cooking with weeds.
We ate sensibly at Les Oliviers in the nifty little nook that is Cour Pre-Carre, a tiny square with 6 restaurants, probably all owned or leased from the chef of Ciboulette, the one-star of the bunch. If so, he's got the market covered from Pizza to Haut Cuisine. Oliviers is the traditional restaurant of the bunch. Vee had aubergine crumble and fillet of red mullet and Norm had terrine of salmon two ways and figottini. Probably the best meal we've had since Val Flerui at Lans en Vercors and not expensive.
We've taken to ordering pichets of wine at dinner and buying the good wines for our afternoon aperitifs. Why pay 30 euros a bottle at a restaurant when similar wines are available at the supermarket for 6?
Street concerts going on around the old town tonight. Too loud to stand and listen to, but we get good reception in our little hotel room overlooking the canal!
Tomorrow we pack up again and head towards the valley of Ain river - no major hills (we think) but nice rolling country climbing back up to the Jura.
We did the Tour de France time trial route around the lake, just to see what the boys will be up against. It's only about 45 kms. There are a few ups and downs, particularly when they climb Col de Bluffy. It's an easy climb as long your not trying to average 50 km/h, but the downhill from there into Talloires is pretty technical for a TT bike - expect to see aluminium, not carbon, rims on this TT. The rest is pretty flat and the crowds will be huge - there are lots of vantage points and this is mecca for holidaying French, Germans, and Dutch anyway.
We didn't even bother to stop at Marc Veyrat's restaurant to look at the menu. The Michelin guide (3 macarons) shows menus & a la carte about 270 euros! Marc Veyrat looks like the Michael Jackson of the culinary set, with black hat, black robe and sunglasses, but he's the celebrity chef of the moment over here, famous for cooking with weeds.
We ate sensibly at Les Oliviers in the nifty little nook that is Cour Pre-Carre, a tiny square with 6 restaurants, probably all owned or leased from the chef of Ciboulette, the one-star of the bunch. If so, he's got the market covered from Pizza to Haut Cuisine. Oliviers is the traditional restaurant of the bunch. Vee had aubergine crumble and fillet of red mullet and Norm had terrine of salmon two ways and figottini. Probably the best meal we've had since Val Flerui at Lans en Vercors and not expensive.
We've taken to ordering pichets of wine at dinner and buying the good wines for our afternoon aperitifs. Why pay 30 euros a bottle at a restaurant when similar wines are available at the supermarket for 6?
Street concerts going on around the old town tonight. Too loud to stand and listen to, but we get good reception in our little hotel room overlooking the canal!
Tomorrow we pack up again and head towards the valley of Ain river - no major hills (we think) but nice rolling country climbing back up to the Jura.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
catch up - 12-14/07
12/7 Bourg d'Oisans to Venthon
Another day, another 2000m pass. It might be the last one with luggage for a while. Three hours of steady climbing at 6-8 km/h is fun and all that, but we don't need to do it every day! The downhills almost make it worth while, as do the astonished stares we get from passersby and congratulations we get from other cyclists. You get the feeling they don't see many tandems on the Col de la Madeleine.
Last time we did this one was in 1991 when we were surprised to find that the Tour de France was climbing the pass the same day. This made accommodation rather tricky the night before and, because of the foul weather, crowds were in their thousands instead of tens of thousands. They cheered us, helped push us up the hill and made a fuss over us at the top. We froze going down the other side and were told to get off and walk by the flics! Yeh, right - just as far as the next corner.
Today was another sunny one, with just a bit of cold wind at the top to prevent us having lunch at the cafe there. Instead we plunged down, accompanied by a hot hub brake, Norm's tired hands, and a demon mountain bike randonneur with full packs who just about kept up with us, giving us something else to dodge along with holes, cracks, and rocks in the road. Late lunch at a cafe at the bottom - heaps of food in four courses for 12.50 euros.
Albertville is no more attractive than it was last time we passed through, so we took a chambre d'hotes in Venthon, 3 kms up the hill towards Beaufort and the Cormet de Roseland, but we haven't decided which way we're going tomorrow. The bike path along the river to Annecy looks very tempting!
13/7 Venthon to Annecy
A delicious breakfast preceded our decision to head back down the hill and along the bike path to Annecy. An almost flat ride for a change and, because it was almost a holiday (a day between the weekend and 14 Juillet (national day)) the bike path was well-used. We arrived in Annecy before mid-day, hit the Office de Tourisme and found a little hotel for 43euros/night. We booked in for three nights and spent the rest of the day walking around the old town in search of a dinner restaurant. We settled on Les Ecuries de Pre Carre, on a little square with 4 other restaurants hidden away from the tourists. Great service from a waiter who was gay as an Easter hat and had all little old ladies under his spell. Vee had Steak Tartare (yep, raw chopped beef to which Vee added gherkins, capers, egg yolk, worcestershire sauce, olive oil, tabasco and seasoning) while Norm had chicken breast served with tapenade and salsa fresca. Most enjoyable. We wandered on down to the waterfront to see the fireworks, but apparently the Annecy fireworks are tomorrow night, though we did see the fireworks from some of the little towns further down the lake. WE had an early night, but not all the neighbours did - it's traditional to drive around at midnight and honk your car horn to signal the start of Fete National.
14/7 91 km loop from Annecy
Off to breakfast at the crack of 8.30 to get on the road for a little loopy ride into the mountains north and east of Annecy. It's a hard town to find your way out of, particularly if you try to follow the bike path signs. The routes into the mountains are autoroutes, with bike paths appearing and disappearing without warning or logic, but we finally found our way on the tiny roads that lead up to Col des Glieres 1440m, the last 2 kms of which were unsealed - got torture test for the tyres. We had lunch at a nice little chalet near the pass - green salad, jambon cru, reblochon cheese, fromage frais and steamed potatoes followed by tart myrtille, all accompanied by rose de Savoie, of course.
The afternoon ride was mostly downhill, the first 7 kms, very steep, very narrow, and lots of switchbacks. The brakes were fine, but Norm had to stop to rest his hands halfway down. Re-entry to Annecy was no easier than exit, with conflicting signs and routes leading back on themselves. We had to stop at a supermarket to buy bubbly to relieve the stress when we arrived back at the hotel.
It'll be just salad and pizza for dinner tonight, at one of the bars along the canals in the old town. I doubt they will have the Lance Armstrong pizza which Lizzy has introduced at the Pizzacarto mothership - very cheesy and just one meatball.
Tomorrow will be another loopy day without luggage, probably over the route of the Tour de France time trial which will take place here next week.
Another day, another 2000m pass. It might be the last one with luggage for a while. Three hours of steady climbing at 6-8 km/h is fun and all that, but we don't need to do it every day! The downhills almost make it worth while, as do the astonished stares we get from passersby and congratulations we get from other cyclists. You get the feeling they don't see many tandems on the Col de la Madeleine.
Last time we did this one was in 1991 when we were surprised to find that the Tour de France was climbing the pass the same day. This made accommodation rather tricky the night before and, because of the foul weather, crowds were in their thousands instead of tens of thousands. They cheered us, helped push us up the hill and made a fuss over us at the top. We froze going down the other side and were told to get off and walk by the flics! Yeh, right - just as far as the next corner.
Today was another sunny one, with just a bit of cold wind at the top to prevent us having lunch at the cafe there. Instead we plunged down, accompanied by a hot hub brake, Norm's tired hands, and a demon mountain bike randonneur with full packs who just about kept up with us, giving us something else to dodge along with holes, cracks, and rocks in the road. Late lunch at a cafe at the bottom - heaps of food in four courses for 12.50 euros.
Albertville is no more attractive than it was last time we passed through, so we took a chambre d'hotes in Venthon, 3 kms up the hill towards Beaufort and the Cormet de Roseland, but we haven't decided which way we're going tomorrow. The bike path along the river to Annecy looks very tempting!
13/7 Venthon to Annecy
A delicious breakfast preceded our decision to head back down the hill and along the bike path to Annecy. An almost flat ride for a change and, because it was almost a holiday (a day between the weekend and 14 Juillet (national day)) the bike path was well-used. We arrived in Annecy before mid-day, hit the Office de Tourisme and found a little hotel for 43euros/night. We booked in for three nights and spent the rest of the day walking around the old town in search of a dinner restaurant. We settled on Les Ecuries de Pre Carre, on a little square with 4 other restaurants hidden away from the tourists. Great service from a waiter who was gay as an Easter hat and had all little old ladies under his spell. Vee had Steak Tartare (yep, raw chopped beef to which Vee added gherkins, capers, egg yolk, worcestershire sauce, olive oil, tabasco and seasoning) while Norm had chicken breast served with tapenade and salsa fresca. Most enjoyable. We wandered on down to the waterfront to see the fireworks, but apparently the Annecy fireworks are tomorrow night, though we did see the fireworks from some of the little towns further down the lake. WE had an early night, but not all the neighbours did - it's traditional to drive around at midnight and honk your car horn to signal the start of Fete National.
14/7 91 km loop from Annecy
Off to breakfast at the crack of 8.30 to get on the road for a little loopy ride into the mountains north and east of Annecy. It's a hard town to find your way out of, particularly if you try to follow the bike path signs. The routes into the mountains are autoroutes, with bike paths appearing and disappearing without warning or logic, but we finally found our way on the tiny roads that lead up to Col des Glieres 1440m, the last 2 kms of which were unsealed - got torture test for the tyres. We had lunch at a nice little chalet near the pass - green salad, jambon cru, reblochon cheese, fromage frais and steamed potatoes followed by tart myrtille, all accompanied by rose de Savoie, of course.
The afternoon ride was mostly downhill, the first 7 kms, very steep, very narrow, and lots of switchbacks. The brakes were fine, but Norm had to stop to rest his hands halfway down. Re-entry to Annecy was no easier than exit, with conflicting signs and routes leading back on themselves. We had to stop at a supermarket to buy bubbly to relieve the stress when we arrived back at the hotel.
It'll be just salad and pizza for dinner tonight, at one of the bars along the canals in the old town. I doubt they will have the Lance Armstrong pizza which Lizzy has introduced at the Pizzacarto mothership - very cheesy and just one meatball.
Tomorrow will be another loopy day without luggage, probably over the route of the Tour de France time trial which will take place here next week.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
catch-up - 9/7 to 11/7
9 July Chapelle en Vercors to Chichiliane
Hotel Belliere at Chapelle en Vercors was a nice place to stay for three days. The room was comfortable, airy, and clean and the staff were friendly and helpful, and the breakfasts were good. Shame about the dinners! They were very school-dorm with side dishes of plain rice, polenta, tinned peas, overcooked cauliflower accompanying undistinguished stews, of beef or pork. The second night we had a nice trout in a red-wine sauce but, considering the cost of demi-pension, it was disappointing. Next time we might stay there, but we won't eat there. There was another nice-looking place 2 kms out of town call Le Collet where we might stay - the menus look better anyway. Chapelle is certainly an ideal center for the many loops in the Vercors.
On departure from Chapelle we had txts from Lucy dining at Retour. It sounds like they are missing France and not just the food.
Today's ride took us over two 1200m passes - Col de Rousset
and Col de Menne. Both nice gradual climbs, seldom over 5pct, with the spectacular descent of Col de Rousset always a highlight as it was the site of our only serious tandem crash several years ago - broken rib and lots of bruises and scrapes, so we take it a bit more carefully now. While stopped at the top of Col De Rousset for the obligatory photo, we were joined by members of a Kiwi group from Christchurch who were staying in Lans en Vercors. The Aussies we met the first day were complaining about lack of vegetables, the Kiwis complained about not enough protein! Menu advice required.
Tonight we are at Hotel Au Gai Soleil in the tiny settlement of Richardiere, attached to the small village of Chichiliane between the Vercors and the river Drac. The hotel is sited right below the spectacular rocky outcrop of Mt Aiguille, and is a haven for trampers and climbers. We're hoping for a better dinner tonight!
10/7 Chichiliane to Bourg-d'Oisan
This place is definitely cycle headquarters. Two of the famous final climbs start here - Alpe d'Huez and Les Deux Alpes. Both have played an important part in Tour de France history but isn't included this year. But this doesn't stop the fanatics flocking here to try their legs on the climbs that have challenged all the cycling greats. We won't be setting our wheels to them - they are not great tandeming hills and they don't go anywhere. They each end at ski stations which, absent either snow or the milling crowds of the Tour, look like a shopping centre when all the shops are closed.
We had a very well prepared meal yesterday but it still wasn't very exciting - Quiche and salad entree, ham and gratin dauphinois main and fondant chataigne for dessert. I'm suffering from a definite duck deficiency - we'll try to rectify that tonight.
Today's ride was about 80 kms starting with a long downhill into the gorge of the Drac river, followed by a long climb over the Col d'Ornan between the massif de Vercors and the massif des Ecrins. A huge lake was formed in this area during the last Ice Age and the erosion following the ice melt left the slopes of the valleys steep and rocky. In the eons since, vegetation has grabbed a hold in the most unlikely places - on the flat summits of high mountains, in the middle of steep scree slopes and every crack and cranny of the cliffs. It makes a stunning sight which is hard to capture with a camera.
We stopped for lunch in Valbonnais, just before the climb, where I discovered last night's room key in my pocket, which we mailed back with the help of the cafe staff. All part of the service!
We checked out the restaurants in town, but most were snack-bars or pizzerias, so we returned to our Hotel Terminus where the cyclist-chef was run off his feet. Much better food here, salads with goat cheese, turkey leg confit in duck fat (N) and trout meuniere (V).
11/7 Bourg d'Oisans to St Jean de Maurienne
Our first 2000m pass of the trip - Col de la Croix de Fer. Another well-known Tour de France pass, but not in use this year. We ascended the Vallee d'Olle - heavily modified for hydroelectric use, but still spectacular. It was a route with lots of "2-fleches" climbs (the michelin maps show gradients with 1-fleche = 5to8 pct, 2-fleche = 9to12 pct, and 3-fleche = more than 12 pct) which is just about our limit with luggage. It took us 3 hours to reach Croix de Fer, while the Tour de France riders would do it in about 50 mins. Again gorgeous views from the top
The descent was 21 kms, with a few short climbs on the way. Not a perfect road surface, as there would be if the Tour de France was descending it this year, but fun none the less. Another quick visit to the Office de Tourisme in St Jean and we installed ourselves at Hotel Bernard. A simplish room with shower but toilet down the hall, free internet. We've watched the finish of the tour stage while drinking Gaillac rouge and snacking on olives and on small peppers stuffed with anchovies. What bliss!
Hotel Belliere at Chapelle en Vercors was a nice place to stay for three days. The room was comfortable, airy, and clean and the staff were friendly and helpful, and the breakfasts were good. Shame about the dinners! They were very school-dorm with side dishes of plain rice, polenta, tinned peas, overcooked cauliflower accompanying undistinguished stews, of beef or pork. The second night we had a nice trout in a red-wine sauce but, considering the cost of demi-pension, it was disappointing. Next time we might stay there, but we won't eat there. There was another nice-looking place 2 kms out of town call Le Collet where we might stay - the menus look better anyway. Chapelle is certainly an ideal center for the many loops in the Vercors.
On departure from Chapelle we had txts from Lucy dining at Retour. It sounds like they are missing France and not just the food.
Today's ride took us over two 1200m passes - Col de Rousset
and Col de Menne. Both nice gradual climbs, seldom over 5pct, with the spectacular descent of Col de Rousset always a highlight as it was the site of our only serious tandem crash several years ago - broken rib and lots of bruises and scrapes, so we take it a bit more carefully now. While stopped at the top of Col De Rousset for the obligatory photo, we were joined by members of a Kiwi group from Christchurch who were staying in Lans en Vercors. The Aussies we met the first day were complaining about lack of vegetables, the Kiwis complained about not enough protein! Menu advice required.
Tonight we are at Hotel Au Gai Soleil in the tiny settlement of Richardiere, attached to the small village of Chichiliane between the Vercors and the river Drac. The hotel is sited right below the spectacular rocky outcrop of Mt Aiguille, and is a haven for trampers and climbers. We're hoping for a better dinner tonight!
10/7 Chichiliane to Bourg-d'Oisan
This place is definitely cycle headquarters. Two of the famous final climbs start here - Alpe d'Huez and Les Deux Alpes. Both have played an important part in Tour de France history but isn't included this year. But this doesn't stop the fanatics flocking here to try their legs on the climbs that have challenged all the cycling greats. We won't be setting our wheels to them - they are not great tandeming hills and they don't go anywhere. They each end at ski stations which, absent either snow or the milling crowds of the Tour, look like a shopping centre when all the shops are closed.
We had a very well prepared meal yesterday but it still wasn't very exciting - Quiche and salad entree, ham and gratin dauphinois main and fondant chataigne for dessert. I'm suffering from a definite duck deficiency - we'll try to rectify that tonight.
Today's ride was about 80 kms starting with a long downhill into the gorge of the Drac river, followed by a long climb over the Col d'Ornan between the massif de Vercors and the massif des Ecrins. A huge lake was formed in this area during the last Ice Age and the erosion following the ice melt left the slopes of the valleys steep and rocky. In the eons since, vegetation has grabbed a hold in the most unlikely places - on the flat summits of high mountains, in the middle of steep scree slopes and every crack and cranny of the cliffs. It makes a stunning sight which is hard to capture with a camera.
We stopped for lunch in Valbonnais, just before the climb, where I discovered last night's room key in my pocket, which we mailed back with the help of the cafe staff. All part of the service!
We checked out the restaurants in town, but most were snack-bars or pizzerias, so we returned to our Hotel Terminus where the cyclist-chef was run off his feet. Much better food here, salads with goat cheese, turkey leg confit in duck fat (N) and trout meuniere (V).
11/7 Bourg d'Oisans to St Jean de Maurienne
Our first 2000m pass of the trip - Col de la Croix de Fer. Another well-known Tour de France pass, but not in use this year. We ascended the Vallee d'Olle - heavily modified for hydroelectric use, but still spectacular. It was a route with lots of "2-fleches" climbs (the michelin maps show gradients with 1-fleche = 5to8 pct, 2-fleche = 9to12 pct, and 3-fleche = more than 12 pct) which is just about our limit with luggage. It took us 3 hours to reach Croix de Fer, while the Tour de France riders would do it in about 50 mins. Again gorgeous views from the top
The descent was 21 kms, with a few short climbs on the way. Not a perfect road surface, as there would be if the Tour de France was descending it this year, but fun none the less. Another quick visit to the Office de Tourisme in St Jean and we installed ourselves at Hotel Bernard. A simplish room with shower but toilet down the hall, free internet. We've watched the finish of the tour stage while drinking Gaillac rouge and snacking on olives and on small peppers stuffed with anchovies. What bliss!
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
July 8 @ La Chapelle en Vercors
Another day, another short loop without baggage.
It was a bit cooler when we emerged this morning with the odd sprinkle of rain, but we headed off to do a loop down the Gorges de la Bourne to Pont en Royans
and back up the Combe Laval.
Spectacular scenery at every turn, beautiful roads and little traffic. What more is there to say? Except that we had a light lunch at the bottom featuring the speciality of the region - little raviolis stuffed with a herb cheese - simply served with butter or lightly fried on a salad.
At the moment we're enjoying coverage of the Tour de France on the telly while consuming a local red wine - Gamay d'Antan from Chatillon en Diois - a bit expensive at 5euros! Cheers
It was a bit cooler when we emerged this morning with the odd sprinkle of rain, but we headed off to do a loop down the Gorges de la Bourne to Pont en Royans
and back up the Combe Laval.
Spectacular scenery at every turn, beautiful roads and little traffic. What more is there to say? Except that we had a light lunch at the bottom featuring the speciality of the region - little raviolis stuffed with a herb cheese - simply served with butter or lightly fried on a salad.
At the moment we're enjoying coverage of the Tour de France on the telly while consuming a local red wine - Gamay d'Antan from Chatillon en Diois - a bit expensive at 5euros! Cheers
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
7 July - @ Chapelle en Vercors
Shock, horror, grief and disappointment! One of our favourite roads in France is no more! The Grand Goulets, the most beautiful part of the road from the south Vercors to Pont en Royans has been replaced by a very modern, very flash, very well lit tunnel! Efficient, of course, and the locals are well pleased. The road it replaced was carved out by hand in the 19th century and featured many short tunnels and long galleries overlooking the rapids and waterfalls of the river Valraison. It was often closed due to rockfalls, was inaccessible in winter and it was probably only a matter of time until a bus full of pensioners got trapped or crushed, but we miss it none the less. It was one of those French roads that is barely wide enough for one car but carries two-way traffic through the judicious use of small passing bays. These usually work surprisingly well as people think ahead and watch carefully. When these don't work, shoulders shrug, hands wave, faces redden and an embarrassed, usually foreign, driver is helped to reverse his motorhome just enough to untangle the mess. At least the Petit Goulets, further down the valley, are still intact but are a mere shadow of their more vertiginous cousins. The rest of our ride was beautiful, with cooler temperatures and very little traffic. It was another short day, just 65 kms, but that left time for us to get haircuts in Chapelle before dinner.
Yesterday we cycled another favourite road, the Pas de l'Ane, on the last day it would be open this summer for more urgent road works. That only leaves about a dozen beautiful routes in this area for us jaded island cyclists.
Tonight we will give our hotel's kitchen a chance redeem itself after a below-par dinner last night. It was a good enough beef stew with pasty polenta and undistinguished crudities, followed by a tasty but dense and unattractive frozen kiwi parfait glace. Usually hotel kitchens make an effort to please their "pensioners" (those on the bed, dinner, breakfast package.) Maybe it was the chef's night off. We'll stay another night regardless, but we'll eat elsewhere tomorrow unless tonight is up to scratch.
We've just about reached the point where we will turn around and head back to Strasbourg. After another loop (Gorge de la Bourne and Combe Laval) tomorrow, we will descend the Col de Rousset on Thursday and head east for a return via a few of the more tame Alpine passes, crossing over to the Ain valley to take us back to Alsace. Lots more great roads and great food and wine to come, I'm sure.
Yesterday we cycled another favourite road, the Pas de l'Ane, on the last day it would be open this summer for more urgent road works. That only leaves about a dozen beautiful routes in this area for us jaded island cyclists.
Tonight we will give our hotel's kitchen a chance redeem itself after a below-par dinner last night. It was a good enough beef stew with pasty polenta and undistinguished crudities, followed by a tasty but dense and unattractive frozen kiwi parfait glace. Usually hotel kitchens make an effort to please their "pensioners" (those on the bed, dinner, breakfast package.) Maybe it was the chef's night off. We'll stay another night regardless, but we'll eat elsewhere tomorrow unless tonight is up to scratch.
We've just about reached the point where we will turn around and head back to Strasbourg. After another loop (Gorge de la Bourne and Combe Laval) tomorrow, we will descend the Col de Rousset on Thursday and head east for a return via a few of the more tame Alpine passes, crossing over to the Ain valley to take us back to Alsace. Lots more great roads and great food and wine to come, I'm sure.
Monday, July 6, 2009
06 July Lans-en-Vercors to Chapelle-en-Vercors
A relocation day from the very belle and friendly Val Fleuri to a more central location in the Vercors at Chapelle. This will allow us at least two days of loops without baggage and without backtracking. We had hoped to get our respective hairs cut, but the coiffeuse was having a day off in town, so we spent the afternoon doing little repairs and maintenance on the tandem and watching the Tour de France. It was perhaps a seminal stage - a large group led by Team Columbia pealed off the front of the peleton and not everyone who SHOULD have been in the group WAS in the group. Lance Armstrong moved up to 3rd and with his team predicted to be especially powerful in the team time trial tomorrow we may see him in the yellow jersey. We're just about to enjoy another dinner outside beside the "Piscine Bio" which is kept clean by filtration by plant life with no chlorine, etc. Just part of a big movement in the last year to more sustainability in France. Even the beef cheeks last night were Bio and the vegetables were all from the hotel's potager garden. The menu last night seemed to be short on choice, but this was deliberate - the food was perfect and probably the best on the tour so far, still with a moderate price. Marinated salmon, local caillette (sort of a firm meatloaf served cold as a terrine), beef cheeks in red wine sauce (which could grace a plate at Retour) and small but perfectly-formed raspberry tart. 50cl of local wine for 5euros, so good we had to have two. Breakfast equally high quality. Service was simple. professional and very welcoming.
Just about time to check out tonight's offerings - can't say how sorry we are to see the low temps forecast for Christchurch, haw haw haw.
Just about time to check out tonight's offerings - can't say how sorry we are to see the low temps forecast for Christchurch, haw haw haw.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
5 July 09 - St Pierre de Chartreuse to Lans en Vercours
We had a most interesting discussion this morning with the hosts at the Chambre d'hote. They were the owners of a small hotel in St Pierre for many years and retired to the beautiful chalet they had built just 100m away from their hotel. In France, the age at which you receive the national pension is based on how many hours you've worked (in your whole life!) and madame had started work at 14! The amount you receive on retirement, however, is based on your working income. In the hotel business, this is much less than for bureaucrats or executives, so they are quite dependant on the income from their chambre d'hote for the little extras. When they quit the hotel, the sold the "fond du commerce" - the business of the hotel, not the "walls," so they also get rent from the new hoteliers. Alas, the hoteliers who have succeeded them have not been as skilful, so they've been through 3 sets and the hotel is not quite so beautiful as it used to be. Let us now praise the NZ system, where everybody gets the same pension at the same age!
Not a very long day today, but a hilly one. We stopped at the tourist office in St Pierre to update the blog and check the weather report, then climbed Col de Porte (1326m) before descending towards the dreaded Grenoble. We stopped at Sappey en Chartreuse to shop for lunch - the usual bread cheese fruit and yoghurt. It was late in the morning on Sunday, so the only small bread left was a pain de siegle (rye-bread) which would have made a German proud - heavy, fairly dry but flavourful. She picked it so she carried it ! The ride down into Grenoble was made as part of a procession of veteran cars - mostly Simcas with the odd Citroen or Matra thrown in. I couldn't help remembering how bad the brakes on those cars were, but we only suffered from the odd backfire and the squeal of ancient drums.
Finding our way through Grenoble was the usual circus but we did remarkably well by keeping the nose pointed south. Vast changes since last we were there, with tram tracks going every which way and lots of one-way streets. Glad we did it on a Sunday!
We climbed into the Vercours by a different route this year. Usually we go via Sassenage, which is a long straight climb with little shade. This year we rode via St Nizier which is twistier but still little shade and no water for the first 15 kms. Beautiful it was, but steeper than the other option. Every picnic area was crowded with Grenoblois on a day out in the mountains but they all had their own refreshments, not to mention badminton sets, beasts on braziers, and folding picnic tables. We filled our emergency bottles from a stream but finally reached a fountain before we had to resort to them. The last 5 kms we were accompanied by a very enthusiastic and talkative young man on a bike telling us all about his life and cycling adventures. Just kept smiling and nodding and pedalling!
We had thought about continuing on to Villard de Lans, which is a bit touristy and crowded, but the arrival of thunder convinced us that Lans en Vercours was far enough. Val Fleuri is a beautiful little hotel built in the 30s and well modernised. We opted, as usual, for the cheaper rooms on the highest floor with bath and bog down the hall - 38 euros. We'll make up for it with a choice of a simple plat du jour or a copious menu - the smells are enticing.
Tomorrow we think we might go just as far as Chapelle en Vercours which will be a perfect centre for a few loops in the Vercours - stunning gorges, challenging passes, and loads of museums especially about the Resistance.
We had a most interesting discussion this morning with the hosts at the Chambre d'hote. They were the owners of a small hotel in St Pierre for many years and retired to the beautiful chalet they had built just 100m away from their hotel. In France, the age at which you receive the national pension is based on how many hours you've worked (in your whole life!) and madame had started work at 14! The amount you receive on retirement, however, is based on your working income. In the hotel business, this is much less than for bureaucrats or executives, so they are quite dependant on the income from their chambre d'hote for the little extras. When they quit the hotel, the sold the "fond du commerce" - the business of the hotel, not the "walls," so they also get rent from the new hoteliers. Alas, the hoteliers who have succeeded them have not been as skilful, so they've been through 3 sets and the hotel is not quite so beautiful as it used to be. Let us now praise the NZ system, where everybody gets the same pension at the same age!
Not a very long day today, but a hilly one. We stopped at the tourist office in St Pierre to update the blog and check the weather report, then climbed Col de Porte (1326m) before descending towards the dreaded Grenoble. We stopped at Sappey en Chartreuse to shop for lunch - the usual bread cheese fruit and yoghurt. It was late in the morning on Sunday, so the only small bread left was a pain de siegle (rye-bread) which would have made a German proud - heavy, fairly dry but flavourful. She picked it so she carried it ! The ride down into Grenoble was made as part of a procession of veteran cars - mostly Simcas with the odd Citroen or Matra thrown in. I couldn't help remembering how bad the brakes on those cars were, but we only suffered from the odd backfire and the squeal of ancient drums.
Finding our way through Grenoble was the usual circus but we did remarkably well by keeping the nose pointed south. Vast changes since last we were there, with tram tracks going every which way and lots of one-way streets. Glad we did it on a Sunday!
We climbed into the Vercours by a different route this year. Usually we go via Sassenage, which is a long straight climb with little shade. This year we rode via St Nizier which is twistier but still little shade and no water for the first 15 kms. Beautiful it was, but steeper than the other option. Every picnic area was crowded with Grenoblois on a day out in the mountains but they all had their own refreshments, not to mention badminton sets, beasts on braziers, and folding picnic tables. We filled our emergency bottles from a stream but finally reached a fountain before we had to resort to them. The last 5 kms we were accompanied by a very enthusiastic and talkative young man on a bike telling us all about his life and cycling adventures. Just kept smiling and nodding and pedalling!
We had thought about continuing on to Villard de Lans, which is a bit touristy and crowded, but the arrival of thunder convinced us that Lans en Vercours was far enough. Val Fleuri is a beautiful little hotel built in the 30s and well modernised. We opted, as usual, for the cheaper rooms on the highest floor with bath and bog down the hall - 38 euros. We'll make up for it with a choice of a simple plat du jour or a copious menu - the smells are enticing.
Tomorrow we think we might go just as far as Chapelle en Vercours which will be a perfect centre for a few loops in the Vercours - stunning gorges, challenging passes, and loads of museums especially about the Resistance.
Blog catch up 30/6-4/7
30 June St Hippolyte to Malbuisson
Fine meal on the terrace last night (marbre of trout and veal in red wine sauce for Norm, dinner of champignons and free-range chicken in veloute sauce for Vee) but breakfast only served inside, and it was warm. The ride started in the valley of the Dessoubre, which we have cycled before, but we exited by via the defile des Epais Roches past a pretty waterfall and had a worker's plat-du-jour lunch at Orchamps-Vennes for 9.50 euro with a 25cl of rose for 2 euro! A small pass of 958m followed by a lovely ridge road into Pontarlier, where we sheltered on a cafe terrace from the regularly scheduled afternoon rainstorm, then Cluse de Joux, with a castle and a fortress frowning down from the two sides of the valley. A bit of exploration in the area of Lac St Point, looking for good accommodation - stayed at Auberge du Caude, just south of our usual haunt of Malbuisson which was a bit over our budget. 107 kms of fairly hilly cycling. We had an aperitif in the garden, snails in pastry followed by a saddle of hare for Norm, colourful vegetable terrine and coq a la bier for Vee - all yummy. Excellent chariot de fromage (Rodney, we were thinking of you) with a very well informed waiter advising. Guess the patissiere must have been on holiday - 3 chocolate turds on a plate for Norm, airy overcooked creme caramel all garnished with cream bomb.
1 July Malbuisson to Oyonnax
Excellent breakfast with more cheese and off along the high valley of the Combes des Cives. Stopped at Chapelle des Bois for coffee where the water source was marked "non-analysee" because the mayor was tired of complaints from visitors blaming the water when they'd had too much sun or alcohol. Spectacular downhill with lots of railway viaducts to Morez - an unexpectedly pretty town where we spent 5 euros for our picnic lunch, got deafened by the mid-day siren and found another candidate for our favourite-road-in-France. This was a one-lane, road closed to motor vehicles on the weekends and unused during the week, through the Gorge de la Bienne which threaded its way between the legs of the viaducts and along the rocky hillside then another swoopy downhill to St Claude, which we had considered as a stop but was unappealing, so we continued up the Crete de Surmontat with lightning and thunder (again just after 3pm) on the horizon before a slight up and another long swoop down to Oyonnax at Hotel Bouffard - a four generation enterprise a bit down at heal now, but good value. We really overate tonight - large salads for entree, (Vegetarians skip the next bit) then a shared cote de boeuf, perfectly grilled - a little char on the outside, through pink to rare in the middle - with dauphinoise potatoes accompanied by Mondeuse. Sleep of the dead.
2 July Oyonnax to Chindrieux
Down the valley on a superseded main road to the pretty lake at Nantua, before our morning hill-climb to Col de la Cheminee (925m) on a surprisingly busy country road and swoops again to the valley of the Rhone. We decided to limit the day to 90 kms and looked around for a hotel near the canal which connects the Rhone to Lac du Bourget. Our first attempt in the charming little waterside down of Chanaz was foiled by an unfriendly hotel-keeper, but we landed on our feet at a little roadside hotel on the Aix-les-Bains side of the lake. Very friendly and charming owner and a good looking menu. We snoozed the late afternoon away and now it's time for an aperitif!
A delicious meal but too large - Norm suffered for it later. Norm had jambon cru, a fish mousse, lamb chops, Vee had lavete (a lake fish) with almonds and fruit salad, accompanied by a bottle of the local wine, Chautagne.
3 July Chindrieux to St Pierre de Chartreuse
After many visits to the west side of Lac du Bourget, we finally cycled the east side instead. As there is only a red road on this side, we always thought there would be too much traffic, but not so. It's a lot flatter on this side and there were lots of cyclists, including a man our age who couldn't understand why he couldn't catch what appeared to be a girl with luggage - he was surprised when we finally hit a hill and he caught the tandem. From Chambery we were in familiar territory. We have climbed Col du Granier at least 4 times and this was the hardest. Either the road is steeper or we are less fit! It was certainly hot. We had a light lunch at the cafe at the top, then dropped into the gorgeous valley of the Entrements before the also familiar and also harder than before Col du Cuchoron. We didn't stay at the hotel at the top of the pass as we had done before, but dropped into St Pierre de Chartreuse where we found a very deluxe but inexpensive Chambre d'Hotes owned by two very fit and active octagenarians. A more modest dinner of salad and beef accompanied by a Cotes de Rhone.
4 July At St Pierre de Chartreuse
The hosts talked us into staying another night with suggestions of good circuits we could do from here. We took the light-weight choice of cycling down the Gorges de Guires Vif and back up the Guires Mortes. I can't say one was more lively than the other, but both were beautiful. It still amazes how well France can integrate a road into a difficult canyon without compromising the scenery. One answer is: they don't make it too easy to drive. It would require a driver's full attention even without 18m long logging trucks. We arrived back early and had a relaxed afternoon watching the first time trial of the Tour de France. Tonight we feel like pizza and salad at the local bar.
Fine meal on the terrace last night (marbre of trout and veal in red wine sauce for Norm, dinner of champignons and free-range chicken in veloute sauce for Vee) but breakfast only served inside, and it was warm. The ride started in the valley of the Dessoubre, which we have cycled before, but we exited by via the defile des Epais Roches past a pretty waterfall and had a worker's plat-du-jour lunch at Orchamps-Vennes for 9.50 euro with a 25cl of rose for 2 euro! A small pass of 958m followed by a lovely ridge road into Pontarlier, where we sheltered on a cafe terrace from the regularly scheduled afternoon rainstorm, then Cluse de Joux, with a castle and a fortress frowning down from the two sides of the valley. A bit of exploration in the area of Lac St Point, looking for good accommodation - stayed at Auberge du Caude, just south of our usual haunt of Malbuisson which was a bit over our budget. 107 kms of fairly hilly cycling. We had an aperitif in the garden, snails in pastry followed by a saddle of hare for Norm, colourful vegetable terrine and coq a la bier for Vee - all yummy. Excellent chariot de fromage (Rodney, we were thinking of you) with a very well informed waiter advising. Guess the patissiere must have been on holiday - 3 chocolate turds on a plate for Norm, airy overcooked creme caramel all garnished with cream bomb.
1 July Malbuisson to Oyonnax
Excellent breakfast with more cheese and off along the high valley of the Combes des Cives. Stopped at Chapelle des Bois for coffee where the water source was marked "non-analysee" because the mayor was tired of complaints from visitors blaming the water when they'd had too much sun or alcohol. Spectacular downhill with lots of railway viaducts to Morez - an unexpectedly pretty town where we spent 5 euros for our picnic lunch, got deafened by the mid-day siren and found another candidate for our favourite-road-in-France. This was a one-lane, road closed to motor vehicles on the weekends and unused during the week, through the Gorge de la Bienne which threaded its way between the legs of the viaducts and along the rocky hillside then another swoopy downhill to St Claude, which we had considered as a stop but was unappealing, so we continued up the Crete de Surmontat with lightning and thunder (again just after 3pm) on the horizon before a slight up and another long swoop down to Oyonnax at Hotel Bouffard - a four generation enterprise a bit down at heal now, but good value. We really overate tonight - large salads for entree, (Vegetarians skip the next bit) then a shared cote de boeuf, perfectly grilled - a little char on the outside, through pink to rare in the middle - with dauphinoise potatoes accompanied by Mondeuse. Sleep of the dead.
2 July Oyonnax to Chindrieux
Down the valley on a superseded main road to the pretty lake at Nantua, before our morning hill-climb to Col de la Cheminee (925m) on a surprisingly busy country road and swoops again to the valley of the Rhone. We decided to limit the day to 90 kms and looked around for a hotel near the canal which connects the Rhone to Lac du Bourget. Our first attempt in the charming little waterside down of Chanaz was foiled by an unfriendly hotel-keeper, but we landed on our feet at a little roadside hotel on the Aix-les-Bains side of the lake. Very friendly and charming owner and a good looking menu. We snoozed the late afternoon away and now it's time for an aperitif!
A delicious meal but too large - Norm suffered for it later. Norm had jambon cru, a fish mousse, lamb chops, Vee had lavete (a lake fish) with almonds and fruit salad, accompanied by a bottle of the local wine, Chautagne.
3 July Chindrieux to St Pierre de Chartreuse
After many visits to the west side of Lac du Bourget, we finally cycled the east side instead. As there is only a red road on this side, we always thought there would be too much traffic, but not so. It's a lot flatter on this side and there were lots of cyclists, including a man our age who couldn't understand why he couldn't catch what appeared to be a girl with luggage - he was surprised when we finally hit a hill and he caught the tandem. From Chambery we were in familiar territory. We have climbed Col du Granier at least 4 times and this was the hardest. Either the road is steeper or we are less fit! It was certainly hot. We had a light lunch at the cafe at the top, then dropped into the gorgeous valley of the Entrements before the also familiar and also harder than before Col du Cuchoron. We didn't stay at the hotel at the top of the pass as we had done before, but dropped into St Pierre de Chartreuse where we found a very deluxe but inexpensive Chambre d'Hotes owned by two very fit and active octagenarians. A more modest dinner of salad and beef accompanied by a Cotes de Rhone.
4 July At St Pierre de Chartreuse
The hosts talked us into staying another night with suggestions of good circuits we could do from here. We took the light-weight choice of cycling down the Gorges de Guires Vif and back up the Guires Mortes. I can't say one was more lively than the other, but both were beautiful. It still amazes how well France can integrate a road into a difficult canyon without compromising the scenery. One answer is: they don't make it too easy to drive. It would require a driver's full attention even without 18m long logging trucks. We arrived back early and had a relaxed afternoon watching the first time trial of the Tour de France. Tonight we feel like pizza and salad at the local bar.
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