3 days catch up

26/06/09 St Quirin to Ban de Laveline
A mere 71 kms today, but a little bit of rain to contend with. From St Quirin, we started climbing immediately then descended into the next valley for a slow steady 18 km climb to Col du Donon. Coffee there, then a forestry road descent of 13 kms - one car passing in the whole descent. The weather forecast was for thunderstorms in the afternoon and, sure enough, the first clap of thunder was dead on 12:00. It was a damp descent, but warm and no drama. Our usual lunch plan is to buy some bread, cheese, fruit and yoghurt to picnic on, but today we had a menu du jour at a Michelin recommended restaurant for 12 euros - salad Lorraine, filet de ling, dessert - then more light rain for the climb over the col d'Hermanpaire for an early arrival at Auberge Lorraine in Ban-de-Laveline. We usually arrive between 5 and 6 pm, but today we were showered and ready for a walk around town by 4. Alas, rain once again intervened, so it was books and TV - lotsa Michael Jackson stuff - before dinner at 8 pm - crudities, roast pork in mustard sauce, and dessert.

Couldn't help but be impressed by the conduct of the drivers of the big logging trucks on our tiny roads, never a close call and no intimidation, just skilful, courteous driving. Too bad we don't see that at home!

Tomorrow will take us over the Grand Balloon d'Alsace if the weather is reasonable and back into Alsace.

27/6/09 Ban de Laveline to Vieux Thann

81 kms today with lots of climbing and a soupcon of rain. Very little traffic as we climbed up forestry roads over 3 passes in the area between Col du Bonhomme and Col de la Schlucht. Beautiful swooping downhills again with a series of laces (switchbacks) to test the braking. We usually picnic, but it was threatening rain again at lunch time, so we stopped at Auberge du Lac, overlooking Lac de Kruth-Wildenstein. Very animated place with lots of hikers and cyclists and good, plain country food plus an inexpensive carafe of red wine. We may have been a bit wobbly when we cycled away, but we were warm and invigorated.

Instead of booking into a hotel, we stopped a the tourist office in Thann and asked them to book us into a Chambres d'hote (bed & breakfast). They booked us into a delightful maison about 3 kms from the town, the proprietress of which had spent 6 months in Christchurch in 1983! That was before Drexel's and even before we arrived in Christchurch. She was unable to find a job at the same time we were desperate for staff at Vacation Hotel Fox Glacier. We'll have a lot to reminisce over about the old Christchurch.

We've booked in for two nights so that we can do a loop including the Grand Ballon without baggage tomorrow, before we move on towards the Jura and Switzerland. For dinner tonight, Madame Schneider has recommended at cute little bistro in the town, so we will be biking in and hoping it doesn't rain before we get back.

28/6/09 2nd night at Vieux Thann

A misty but warm start for a 105 km loop into the Ballons (high rounded hills, the result of the weathering of volcanos that last erupted before NZ emerged from the sea.) At about 1000m we emerged from the fog into perfect sunshine, with just wisps of cloud about the hills. Lots of bicycles and motorcycles out enjoying the twisty roads, along with a parade of original Fiat Bambinas at least 50 strong, followed by a modern Bambina towing a trailer, not doubt full of spare parts. We had dessert at the top (tart au myrtille) and lunch at the bottom of the descent (top speed 81 kmh) in Munster. One more pass, then via flat roads through vineyards on the side of the Rhein Valley back to Vieux Thann.

Tonight will be dinner with family at the Chambres d'Hote. We know she's a good cook, we enjoyed homemade honey and jam and spice cake at breakfast!

29/06/09

So the Table d'hote dinner cooked by Madame Schneider wasn't terrific, it was still good dining with the family. It was fresh river trout with a cream sauce and rice, preceded by pumpkin soup with comte cheese, followed by tart au myrtille - myrtille being a berry found for the most part only in France. It's English name is bilberry, but I can't say I have ever seen it in an English restaurant or cook book. Madame Schneider reminded us so much of our Lois - cute, blonde, petite, with a gorgeous smile and charming manner.

The weather was fine and hot today for our 108 km hilly bike ride to St Hippolyte in the Franche-Comte region. Plenty of variety - railway bike paths, rolling country roads, steep climbs over relatively low passes. We passed through a tiny slice of Switzerland on the way, but finished up with a rollicking 8 km downhill to the Doubs river. Our usual picnic lunch of bread, cheese, and fruit was not really sufficient today so we were fading towards the end. I'm sure they are making kilometers longer these days!

Staying and dining tonight at a Logis overlooking the Dessoubre river.