Blog catch up 14/08 to 24/08

14 August Bordeaux to Agen by car!

Part 4 of the trip begins! We had to return to the GoSport shop this morning to correct an error in the purchase of two cycling jerseys the night before. They didn't charge us the sale price for Norm's jersey so we got a 22euro refund. Then on to the Peugeot dealer to pick up our chariot for the Jo & Rodney part of the trip. The only problem there was that they had no owner's manual for the car and couldn't find the wheel changing tools which they were required to show us before we left. The agent had to phone the Peugeot factory to get the answer! The tools were very well hidden beneath a panel under the passenger seat, but the agent had to download a portion of the owner's manual for us from the Peugeot UK website. Norm, of course, likes to read all the details, but it was just enough information to sort out how to use cruise control, automatic lights and wipers, and radio controls on the steering wheel.

15 August - Agen to Bordeaux to Cap Ferret to Castagnede
We drove back to Agen for another 2 nights with the Rodriguez family - more lunch, more apero, more dinner, more jolitility. We had a fairly early start on Sunday for the drive to Bordeaux to meet Jo & Rod. Norm dropped Vee off at the railway station, then found a car park a few blocks away. J&R had arrived by the time Norm walked back to the RR station, so their bags were humped back to the car for a quick take off.

The drive to Cap Ferret for lunch was a bit longer than planned, with big traffic jams going into the beach area on the last day of the main summer holiday weekends. Lunch was at Cafe Pinasse, our table only cms from the sand. Foie gras, chipirons, langoustines, oysters, stuffed squid, souffle Grand Marnier and champagne, then back on the road to Castagenede for a superb dinner at La Belle Auberge with Carlos & Elliane while Mireille and Perrot slaved away. After dinner we followed them to their lovely house on the hill above Castagnede. They bought the house with only the walls and roof intact, infested with bats and beasties and transformed it into an incredibly comfortable and tasteful home. We didn't have too much time to be impressed that night - way too much eating this day and no cycling. Tomorrow will have to be different!

16 August - At Castagnede

A light breakfast with the Guells, then bike assembly and testing. A 30 km morning ride via Sauveterre and Salies de Bearn to lunch at Auberge de Fountaine in Loas, owned by Mireille and Perrot's sun for another gourmet lunch of foie gras, oysters, fish, man melon and trout, before an easy 30 km afternoon ride back to the Guell's. We drove down to La Belle Auberge for a swim and for Norm to internet the payroll, then back to the Guell's for a late dinner with Carlos &Eliane and Mireile and Perrot when they finished work. Grilled green chilis with wild ham, followed by langoustines and lobster, accompanied by a bottle plus a magnum of champagne. This luxury can 't go on!

17 August - Castagnede to Arette - 80 kms

We got a reasonable early start with lots of best wishes and deep thanks for all the hospitality we have enjoyed over the last two days. Both couples are incredibly kind and generous - we look forward to seeing them again in New Zealand, perhaps for the rugby world cup.

Norm drove to Arette to leave the car and baggage while Vee, Jo and Rod cycled over the long hill to Mauleon. Norm cycled via Tardets to meet them there for lunch before joining them for the ride back to Arette via Barcus - 74 kms for J,R and V. This was a hilly day and was a good warm up for the first pass tomorrow. Hotel L'Ours in Arette was disappointing, with reasonable rooms but a very plain dinner. The proprietor, a former competitive cyclist who set the world 10 and 50 km track tandem record in the seventies, cast his eye over our bikes and did not approve - especially of the side on which side the front quick release was fastened. Oh well.

18 August - At Arette - 64 kms

Today's ride was Jo & Rod's first real test. We had thought of doing Cold d'Erroymendi for lunch in Isabena, then back over Col de Soldet, but the Soldet road on the Spanish side was closed for construction, so we took the valley road from Larrau to St Engrace and Soldet instead. This was probably enough, as it was very hot - 37c. The 22 km downhill to Arette was a welcome cooling break!

We couldn't face another Hotel l'Ours dinner, so we drove to Larrau for dinner at Etchemaite, the hotel in which we had hoped to stay instead of at Arette. Wonderful dinner and very refined cuisine.

Another hot night meant no one getting a very good night's sleep.

19 August - Arette to Argeles-Gazost - 50 kms

A 50 km car boost to Bielle meant a reasonable distance for this hard day in the heat. Vee, Jo, and Rod climbed Col d'Aubisque while Norm drove to Argeles-Gazost, unloaded the bags, then biked up to Col du Solour for a light lunch before meeting the others a short way along the road to Aubisque. Another stunning downhill to Argeles and our quaint Hotel Beau Site. Dinner was at Hotel Miramont, our old favourite where we were remembered by staff.

20 August - at Argeles - 78 kms

We had a unanimous vote for an easy day today after two consecutive over-the-col days. We biked down the bike path to Lourdes and Rod and Norm visited Cycles Abres while Jo & Vee bought large swags of chocolate as thank you gifts for Carlos & Iliane and Mireille and Perrot. After lunch at a pub, we all returned to Cycles Abres for a buying spree of local cycling jerseys. We cycled past the Ste Bernadette grotte, got chased away by the guards, then to Betherame to photo the chapel and back to Argeles. Dinner in our neighbourhood - just across the road for simple meat and vegetables.

21 August at Argeles - 103 kms

An early-ish start for the grand col du Tourmalet, passing and being passed by lots of cyclists. It took us nearly 3 hours to all arrive at the top, but it was not too difficult or dis-heartening for anyone. Rod and Norm had celebratory beers at the top, then down the hill to Bagnieres de Bigorre for lunch in the place in front of the baths. The troops were a bit bum and leg sore by this time, so the 40 kms back to Argeles were fairly slow. Dinner at a pizza parlour tonight and early to bed.

22 August - Argeles to Sarlat by car

A not-very-adventurous day's driving - 455 kms - to our Chambres d'hote at Sarlat. This was a big disappointment as the pool had been emptied due to leaks and need for maintenance and the house had crumbled a bit since Vee inspected it last year. The hostess had had a major traffic crash with a major foot injury, so this may have compromised the standards. No one slept very well because of noisy plumbing and wildlife - centipedes, BIG wasps, and mosquitos.

23 August - at Sarlat 82 kms

We made an early decision to move to the nearby Hotel de Mas des Peches. We paid a bit extra for having spent only one night at the CdH, but it was well worth it.
Very modern facilities, a fine swimming pool and air conditioning. Today's bike ride was to Montignac via Salignac and St Amand Coly to sign up for an English language tour of Lascaux II for Jo & Rod. We visited Roque St Christophe on the way back and Vee, Jo, and Rod explored the troglodyte town while Norm guarded the bikes, beer in hand. Back via Marquay, then a delicious dinner at Relais de Cinq Chateau.